ARLINGTON, VA -- On
Episode 49 of
The Rice Stuff podcast, co-host Lesley Dixon sits down with the proprietors of a delicatessen in Ohio and a saké brewery in Texas to discuss the magical ingredient they have in common: koji.
A culinary mold as ancient as the domesticated rice it grows on, koji is used to create many of the common foods, condiments, and beverages we eat every day, from saké to soy sauce. A staple ingredient in Asian cuisine for thousands of years, koji is a swiftly growing trend chefs around the world are adopting, and its applications seem almost limitless.
“It’s arguably the most important food ingredient worldwide,” said Chef Jeremy Umansky, co-owner of Larder Delicatessen & Bakery in Cleveland, Ohio, and co-author of the book
Koji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation. “People shouldn’t be shocked to hear that molds are used in cooking. Culinary molds like koji help to preserve, assist in fermentation, tenderize, and create very delicious flavors.”
Chef Umansky is utilizing koji in surprising and creative new ways at Larder. From pastrami to rye bread, the upscale deli’s eastern European Jewish staples reach new levels of rich, complex, umami (or savory) flavors thanks to koji.
But an episode about koji wouldn’t be complete without a saké tasting. The owners of
Texas Saké Company in Austin, Texas, had to figure out how to grow their own koji when pandemic supply chain issues cut off their source in California. The brewery inauspiciously cut the ribbon on its new taproom in south Austin just one week before COVID shutdowns in 2020, but now they’re back stronger than ever with a dizzying variety of saké, cocktails, and rice-based lagers, all crafted from California Calrose rice.
“The koji-making process is as important as anything we do, because it gives a level of control on the resulting flavors you can’t get otherwise,” said Tim Klatt, vice president and COO of Texas Saké Company.
The brewery and taproom has something for everyone, from traditional saké to saké margaritas, and offers a range of infusions such as dragonfruit, ginger, and even oak, which gives the saké a smoky flavor reminiscent of whisky. They’ve also partnered with Texas Sushiko, a sushi food truck helmed by Chef Michael Carranza.
“I was amazed to learn how versatile koji is as an ingredient and to hear about all the creative things our guests are doing with it,” said co-host Michael Klein. “I knew it was used to make saké, but didn’t realize what a burgeoning trend it is in the food industry right now. We’re always excited to see local saké breweries using U.S.-grown rice, whether it’s Texas Saké Company in Austin or Wetlands Saké out of New Orleans, who participated in a panel at last year’s Outlook Conference. And of course, we love to sample the saké.”
New episodes of
The Rice Stuff are published on the second and fourth Tuesday of every month and can be found on Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, and online at
www.thericestuffpodcast.com.